After Moda a Firenze 1540-1580. Lo stile di Eleonora di Toledo e la sua influenza (2005)
, the research project goes on, now with male clothing of the same period. Thanks to the papers from the Archivio di Stato of Florence, the author reconstructs the whole wardrobe of Eleonora’s husband, Cosimo I de’ Medici, day by day from 1544 until 1574, that is from the first time notes about the duke’s clothes appeared in official documents till the death of Cosimo. The founder of the grand-ducal dynasty created his public image with great care and determination, but Roberta Orsi Landini focus attention as well on Cosimo I’s personal tastes. The book describes fashion development in Florence through the analysis of items from the duke’s wardrobe and makes confrontations with potrait-paintings in order to define when new styles started up and which were the most favourite colours, materials and decorations of the period. Besides, the manufacturers panorama is meticulously reconstructed. Synoptic tables illustrate every change during the forty years; they are also a great tool to date paintings. Moreover, the author reconstructs the paper patterns of Cosimo and his son don Garçia’s burial gowns. Appendix includes daily off-the-peg clothes annotations, and lists amounts and materials in detail.
Forewords by Kirsten Aschengreen Piacenti and Caterina Chiarelli. With a contribution by Thessy Schoenholzer Nichols.
32cm., cloth, 312 pp., over 150 plates. Price US $129.00 (order from DBBC